It Ain't So Lonely Afterall

When I was in college, I envisioned myself living in a city thriving on the hustle and bustle and riding a wave of pulsating energy. Cities provided me with a unique excitement and bursts of creative energy… for the first 4 days. It was only after visiting a city for an extended period of time that I realized I could, and would, never live in a big city long term.  All of a sudden they overwhelmed me, drained me, and stroked my ego in all the wrong ways. Bangkok was no exception. While I enjoyed exploring the vibrant city for a few days, I couldn’t wait to “get the hell outta there!”

I'd rather be here any day! Turns out, vast spaces within vicinity of the ocean hit the sweet spot. This photo was taken a few months before I left for Thailand in a place that is currently my home...for the moment.

If you’ve read my Bangkok post, you’ll remember that I got there guns blazing ready to fight off all the rapists, murderers, and harassers. You will also remember that I didn’t encounter any. Safety wise, I would say Bangkok is safer than most major U.S. cities. I rocked it there. I walked everywhere, dodged the tourist traps, and even made some friends along the way. But the city was still filled with people, pollution, and way too much noise for my peace-seeking mind. So a few days after arriving, riding on my newfound confidence, I took public transportation to an island east of Bangkok, just a boat ride away from Cambodia, the island of Koh Chang.

My intention for the trip was to experience the beauty and culture that Thailand had to offer while avoiding as many tourists as I could. I was out to meet travelers, not tourist. And trust me, there is a huge difference.  Having done my research, I knew that Koh Chang was “off the beaten path” attracting those that were willing to expect the unexpected, take some risks, and challenge themselves; exactly what I was hoping, and looking, for. And I definitely got that.

I arrived at the bus station and after asking around for the best price (using lots and lots of hang gestures) and fastest time of arrival, I boarded a 10-person shuttle and we were on our way! I was the only white person on the shuttle and that comes with its territory. I was looked at, laughed at, stared at, and talked about. And honestly I didn’t mind, I was expecting it. What I wasn’t expecting was all the stops we made. I kid you not, we stopped at the shuttle driver’s brother’s, sister’s, cousin’s, uncle’s, grandmother’s, and father’s house. And that, I was not expecting.

Each time we stopped, I had no idea what was going on and there was no one that could explain it to me. In fact, some of places that we stopped at, the thought running through my mind was “Well, this is it. This is what everyone warned me about. I’m gonna be the foreign girl that gets kidnapped, raped, and murdered.” (Typing that makes me cringe, but at that time I still had some fear in my heart and worries on my mind.)

Silly girl.

It takes about 6 hours to get to Koh Chang, and after 3, everyone on the shuttle took me in as their foreign relative and made sure I was always where I was supposed to be. You see, when filling up a bus/shuttle in Thailand (at a gas station), they require you to get out of the vehicle and wait. And each time we got out, someone from my shuttle would stand near me and smile at me (or laugh at me, I’m not quite sure). But when it was time to leave, they always, ALWAYS, made sure that I was back on that shuttle. And when we got to the ferry that would take us to the island, they led me to the right ferry and made sure I got a fair price. So whether they laughed at me or not, I know that they cared. Thai people are the most loving, helpful, caring, gentle, and friendly individuals that I have ever encountered. It’s called the “Land of Smiles” for a reason.

As I boarded the ferry and floated to the island, the weather looked a bit threatening. It created an air of mystery and magic. At that moment, I knew I was going somewhere special.

As soon as I stepped off the ferry, the skies cleared, the sun came out, and my heart twinkled with anticipation. I made it! I was on the island! I did it! All by myself!

The ride to my bungalow. Thailand and safety don't go hand in hand, I learned.

From my research, I decided to go to Lonely Beach, an area known for its alternative vibe and lack of resorts. It was the furthest beach from the ferry port, but it’s like that for a reason. It was littered with bamboo beach bungalows occupied by crazy, spontaneous individuals without a resort in sight. I’d arrived in paradise and I wasn’t alone. I was surrounded by like-minded adventurers. (Sigh with love-struck memories) It may be called Lonely Beach, but it isn’t that lonely afterall.

The one and only road in Lonely Beach.

It ain't so lonely! And there's no crowds!

I stayed in a private bungalow at Oasis and as soon as I arrived I knew I’d made the right decision. I was greeted with smiles and an explanation of an honor system used for food and drinks. You can order whatever you want and grab a drink anytime…and they trusted you to write it down on your own sheet. I appreciated the sense of trust more than I can put into words. A place where strangers trust each other (and of course, soon become friends) is truly an Oasis. And at $20/night for an air conditioned private bungalow (which is expensive for Thai standards (!!!)), I was blissed out.

The deck where all the bungalow inhabitants spent most of their time, myself included. It was a wonderful way to connect, share experiences, and make new friends over a round of beers.

The beach wasn’t that bad either.

I spend a week on Koh Chang and couldn’t be more grateful to have found such a gem. There were some tourists, but most of the people I met on Lonely Beach were long-term travelers. If you ever go to Thailand, do yourself a favor and get your booty to Lonely Beach on Koh Chang.

Leaving.

I can’t wait to go back to Thailand. Who wants to come with me?