It Ain't So Lonely Afterall

When I was in college, I envisioned myself living in a city thriving on the hustle and bustle and riding a wave of pulsating energy. Cities provided me with a unique excitement and bursts of creative energy… for the first 4 days. It was only after visiting a city for an extended period of time that I realized I could, and would, never live in a big city long term.  All of a sudden they overwhelmed me, drained me, and stroked my ego in all the wrong ways. Bangkok was no exception. While I enjoyed exploring the vibrant city for a few days, I couldn’t wait to “get the hell outta there!”

I'd rather be here any day! Turns out, vast spaces within vicinity of the ocean hit the sweet spot. This photo was taken a few months before I left for Thailand in a place that is currently my home...for the moment.

If you’ve read my Bangkok post, you’ll remember that I got there guns blazing ready to fight off all the rapists, murderers, and harassers. You will also remember that I didn’t encounter any. Safety wise, I would say Bangkok is safer than most major U.S. cities. I rocked it there. I walked everywhere, dodged the tourist traps, and even made some friends along the way. But the city was still filled with people, pollution, and way too much noise for my peace-seeking mind. So a few days after arriving, riding on my newfound confidence, I took public transportation to an island east of Bangkok, just a boat ride away from Cambodia, the island of Koh Chang.

My intention for the trip was to experience the beauty and culture that Thailand had to offer while avoiding as many tourists as I could. I was out to meet travelers, not tourist. And trust me, there is a huge difference.  Having done my research, I knew that Koh Chang was “off the beaten path” attracting those that were willing to expect the unexpected, take some risks, and challenge themselves; exactly what I was hoping, and looking, for. And I definitely got that.

I arrived at the bus station and after asking around for the best price (using lots and lots of hang gestures) and fastest time of arrival, I boarded a 10-person shuttle and we were on our way! I was the only white person on the shuttle and that comes with its territory. I was looked at, laughed at, stared at, and talked about. And honestly I didn’t mind, I was expecting it. What I wasn’t expecting was all the stops we made. I kid you not, we stopped at the shuttle driver’s brother’s, sister’s, cousin’s, uncle’s, grandmother’s, and father’s house. And that, I was not expecting.

Each time we stopped, I had no idea what was going on and there was no one that could explain it to me. In fact, some of places that we stopped at, the thought running through my mind was “Well, this is it. This is what everyone warned me about. I’m gonna be the foreign girl that gets kidnapped, raped, and murdered.” (Typing that makes me cringe, but at that time I still had some fear in my heart and worries on my mind.)

Silly girl.

It takes about 6 hours to get to Koh Chang, and after 3, everyone on the shuttle took me in as their foreign relative and made sure I was always where I was supposed to be. You see, when filling up a bus/shuttle in Thailand (at a gas station), they require you to get out of the vehicle and wait. And each time we got out, someone from my shuttle would stand near me and smile at me (or laugh at me, I’m not quite sure). But when it was time to leave, they always, ALWAYS, made sure that I was back on that shuttle. And when we got to the ferry that would take us to the island, they led me to the right ferry and made sure I got a fair price. So whether they laughed at me or not, I know that they cared. Thai people are the most loving, helpful, caring, gentle, and friendly individuals that I have ever encountered. It’s called the “Land of Smiles” for a reason.

As I boarded the ferry and floated to the island, the weather looked a bit threatening. It created an air of mystery and magic. At that moment, I knew I was going somewhere special.

As soon as I stepped off the ferry, the skies cleared, the sun came out, and my heart twinkled with anticipation. I made it! I was on the island! I did it! All by myself!

The ride to my bungalow. Thailand and safety don't go hand in hand, I learned.

From my research, I decided to go to Lonely Beach, an area known for its alternative vibe and lack of resorts. It was the furthest beach from the ferry port, but it’s like that for a reason. It was littered with bamboo beach bungalows occupied by crazy, spontaneous individuals without a resort in sight. I’d arrived in paradise and I wasn’t alone. I was surrounded by like-minded adventurers. (Sigh with love-struck memories) It may be called Lonely Beach, but it isn’t that lonely afterall.

The one and only road in Lonely Beach.

It ain't so lonely! And there's no crowds!

I stayed in a private bungalow at Oasis and as soon as I arrived I knew I’d made the right decision. I was greeted with smiles and an explanation of an honor system used for food and drinks. You can order whatever you want and grab a drink anytime…and they trusted you to write it down on your own sheet. I appreciated the sense of trust more than I can put into words. A place where strangers trust each other (and of course, soon become friends) is truly an Oasis. And at $20/night for an air conditioned private bungalow (which is expensive for Thai standards (!!!)), I was blissed out.

The deck where all the bungalow inhabitants spent most of their time, myself included. It was a wonderful way to connect, share experiences, and make new friends over a round of beers.

The beach wasn’t that bad either.

I spend a week on Koh Chang and couldn’t be more grateful to have found such a gem. There were some tourists, but most of the people I met on Lonely Beach were long-term travelers. If you ever go to Thailand, do yourself a favor and get your booty to Lonely Beach on Koh Chang.

Leaving.

I can’t wait to go back to Thailand. Who wants to come with me?

Before.

The past few days I've been sorting through my pictures from Thailand, India, and the sweet days of my life in Utah and now, California. I came across some beauties from a trip I took just a few weeks before boarding the plane for SE Asia.

It was a 4 day solo trip to the coast and up through the glorious Redwoods. I love the serenity and sacredness of solo travel and wonder what it would be like to travel with somebody. Maybe one day I'll try it.

Until then, here are some photos of magical moments in time that settled my heart and prepared me for my big journey. I am eternally grateful to call this place my hOMe.

My cozy sleeping spot. Falling asleep to the sound of crashing waves is the sweetest sound I've ever known.

Beer, book, and a stunning sunset.

Early morning visitor.

Can you see me?

The oldest of them all.

Quiet, serene, peaceful.

I intend to write about my journeys as they settle into my heart and reveal new wisdom. I believe inspiration will come as I continue to be patient with myself. Thanks for reminiscing with me.

Bangkok: A Quick Glimpse

When I spoke openly of traveling solo, I received looks of displease and concern. When I spoke of traveling solo through Europe, I was treated as if I had a death wish. When I spoke of Bangkok, I was told stories of slaughter, horrifying rabies deaths, theft, and despair. 

So of course, I came into Bangkok guns blazing, ready to face any sign of danger. Except there wasn't any. Bangkok is full of the friendliest people I've ever met. Sure, they'll try to rip you off and charge you more for a taxi ride or a pound of clementines...and by "more" I mean $0.30 more. Can you blame them? Just like the stories that brought my parents to the U.S., the Thai hear stories of gold paved road and the "American Dream". And yes, they will try to take advantage of that. But hurt you? No way.

I can confidently say that Bangkok is the safest city I've ever visited.

I have a habit of pre-booking a room with airport transportation whenever I visit a place, especially an unfamiliar country. There is nothing more relieving than seeing a sign with your name on it after multiple days of travel. And I was so grateful to see that in Bangkok and even more grateful to find myself in an incredible room with the comfiest bed I've ever slept in (that opinion may be influence by 40 hours of non-stop movement and plane hopping).

After a night of great sleep, I was ready to take on Bangkok. I was dropped off at the metro station and had my first public transportation experience in Thailand. Having experienced metros of many US cities, the Thai experience proved to be a piece of cake. My first stop was the Indian Embassy. In a spurt of spontaneity I added India to my itinerary without thinking through the Visa part (typical Yelena) so there I was, a white girl with a backpack refusing to take a taxi and instead navigating foreign streets with a map in hand. Without any trouble, amazed at the ease of navigating streets and my map reading abilities (all those wilderness skills!), I made it to the embassy. Three hours later I walked out with a receipt in hand and instructions to pick up my visa in 6 business days. So there it is- I am officially going to India!

I walked to my hostel and was blown away by the views from my balcony.

I quickly learned that walking is my preferred method of transportation and in the process determined that it's also the best way to explore a city. By walking you are able to see the good, the bad, and the ugly. You find yourself falling in line with the pace of the people and get an appreciation for their day to day life. So I walked everywhere. The only time I didn't walk was alone at night. In fact, I was so tired from my full days of walking that I was in bed by 8pm every night. 

Here are some highlights from my two days in Bangkok:

1. Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park is Bangkok's version of NYC's Central Park. Much smaller in size, it had waves of runners, Tai Chi practitioners, and all sorts of other health conscious individuals. Walking through Lumpini Park, I realized that daily exercise is part of the Thai lifestyle. There were individuals of all shapes and ages moving their bodies in whatever way felt good. 

2. The Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha

A typical tourist attraction that cannot be missed. It is so beautiful.

And the reclining buddha was a sight to behold. It was HUGE.

The next few are a result of walking and really getting a feel for the city away from the beaten path.

3. The altars all over the city.

As a nation of Buddhists, there are altars and places of worship on every street block. They are all very unique with their own sense of charm. It is typical to see people praying and stopping multiple times a day for a moment of worship is a way of life for the Thai people. Their strong sense of spirituality radiates in every inch of their city.

4. The slowly emerging eco-consciousness of Bangkok.

Bangkok is dirty. There is trash all around and the sanitation of places isn't a high priority. However, there is a slowly emerging "green" culture. They have an official bikes only day, and there are places you can rent bikes and return them at a different location. Slowly but surely, Thailand is stepping towards a more environmentally friendly way of life.  

5. The charm of Thai streets, shops, sidewalks, and alleyways.

By walking everywhere, I feel that I truly got a taste of authentic Bangkok. From the fear inducing alleyways of people staring at you to side roads off a busy highway, Thailand is filled with opportunities to truly experience it's culture. I am grateful to have gotten a tiny taste.

Home Sweet Thailand

I will never forget the heaviness of the air as I stepped off the plane. The humidity is unlike any I've felt before; an entity it's own, attacking your body for it's moisture and sucking it all out. The flight from Beijing to Bangkok felt like a delusional roller coaster ride as 36 hours of no sleep took over my mind and the monsoon took over the plane. I dozed in and out of consciousness, awakened by the dramatic drops and rocked back to sleep by the gentle bumps of the invisible air road. Somehow instead of feeling fear or worry, a euphoria took over. I smiled as the plane fought it's way through the thickness of the monsoon clouds and felt a sense of blissful weightlessness as the wheels made contact with the runway.

I was surprised at how quickly I got past immigration and stepped out into a mass of people yelling things in my face, asking what my name is, and trying to convince me that I "won't regret staying in this all-inclusive resort on the beach!" Sorry new Thai friends, been there done that and it ain't my thing! I was prepared for the airport lobby and knew exactly what to do; don't look them in the eyes and don't respond.

I did just that...until I didn't. You see, I had pre-arranged a ride and at the meeting point there were dozens of drivers holding up signs with names. Amongst them were individuals advertising for taxis and all sorts of non-necessities. As I glanced through all the signs looking for my name, I made eye contact with a Thai advertising a taxi service. Mistake number one. Don't make eye contact.

When asked if I needed a taxi I said no. Mistake number two. Don't respond.

It took countless polite declines and finally a very firm NO to escape. After that interaction, I chose to hang out by the flight monitors and discreetly glance over to look for a sign with my name on it. Finally, I see it! A man holding a sign with my name on it! I approach him with a smile and put out my hand for a handshake. He looks confused. I had a moment of panic where I couldn't remember if it's the left hand or the right hand that's considered dirty in Thailand....FAIL. Hoping that I didn't offend my driver, I bowed my head in apology and looked up to see him smiling that beautiful, warm smile that Thais are famous for. He grabbed my bag and started walking...I followed.

We walked through hallways, took a few turns, and were in a parking garage. We approached his car and I immediately went for the passenger side door. I looked up to see my driver confused again. I glanced into the window and realized that I was standing at the driver's side...second fail.

Laughing, I made my way to the other side, got in, and we took off. While driving, I though about my adventure so far and how it led up to a moment of being in a car with a stranger, driving through a country I've never been in, and trusting that I was going to end up in a safe place with a clean and comfy bed. I know what some of you may be thinking- you're stupid, crazy, and asking for trouble.

I appreciate your concern and respect your opinion. We are all entitled to our individual truths and beliefs. That's what makes us so interesting and special. I believe in trust, intuition, and adventure. I believe in overcoming fears, putting myself in risky and fearful situations, and doing things solo for the purpose of growth and self-discovery. I believe that there is danger everywhere, and there is also goodness everywhere. I've heard horror stories of terrible things happening to people overseas, and I've heard just as many horror stories of terrible things happening to people in my own neighborhood and in my own country. And yes, I am afraid of terrible things happening to me- overseas and in the states. But I am not going to let that fear stop me from living my life the way I am inspired to live it. I believe in the power of my intuition and I have become fluent in it's language. As soon as I started listening, understanding, and most importantly following that voice, my life has been exponentially evolving into a journey of meaning, purpose, and limitless possibilities.

It has led me through mountains and canyons; to the oceans and the rivers; to remote places of wilderness and into the hearts of teenagers; to brother Thailand and mother India; to soulmates, growth zones, and wild adventures; to a life of overcoming fears, finding joy in every moment, a belief in the goodness of people, and a trust in the unexplainable; to a safe place and a comfy bed.

I don't know how often I will blog through this chapter of my journey. Maybe daily, weekly, or not at all. Either way, I'll have stories the next time our paths cross.

Love and Blessings to you all.

The Little Gypsy Abode

I would like to give you all a tour of my little gypsy abode amongst the Southern Utah canyons. A little haven I'll be leaving so soon and will miss greatly. But adventures await, and how can I say no to a little adventure ;-) ?

Kitchen windowsill. And of course, pictures of my two favorite beings :-)

In the bedroom looking into the kitchen/living space.

Living space

The awesome table and chairs graciously donated by my neighbor!

My tiny little entrance.

Tiny little kitchen.

Laundry room/ gear room.

View from my front window!

Bathroom

Always grateful <3

Beloved bear skull.

Windowsill

More windowsills! My kitchen and living space is surrounded by windows. 

Kitchen sink.

Notes/mail/sentimental-ness 

My favorite part of the house- my reading chair.

Kitchen.

Pantry!

I love, love, LOVE my ceilings.

Sleeping space.

Art by my favorite people.

Closet/sleeping space

Living space looking into sleeping space.

Kitchen sink

<3

Books!

I am a homebody and this little home is so perfect for me. I have grown deep roots in this home, and tearing my roots out is hard...much harder than I thought. But I'm doing it! As I discussed with a dear friend recently, a home is not enough to keep a gypsy in one place for too long. And the time has come to go, once again, on a life changing journey. Let the adventures begin!

I'll be sharing many more updates as I slowly return to the blogging world- but for now, enjoy my little gypsy abode!